When I was doing research for my trip to Puerto Escondido, I was having a hard time actually figuring out what’s what. So, I decided to fill in the blanks. Here’s my definitive guide to Puerto Escondido!
To start with, I ate at SO many different restaurants in Puerto Escondido, I had to write a separate blog post just for the food. If you’re somebody who lives to eat, make sure to check out my Puerto Escondido food guide!
The Pacific coast of Mexico is home to Puerto Escondido, a fishing village thats exploded in popularity in the last few decades. For years, Puerto Escondido was a sleepy coastal town, visited by pro surfers looking to surf the Mexican Pipeline. Lately, Puerto Escondido has jumped into the tourism spotlight. From what I could figure out from my pre-trip googling, Puerto Escondido is a small town, with a wide spread.
Puerto Escondido spreads south along the coast, with three sections being the main points of interest to Puerto Escondido visitors. Puerto Escondida town, Zicatela, and La Punta draw the most attention from travellers. The three are spread across an area a bit too large to be easily walkable. Since hoofing it is how I justify a guac and chips diet, I wanted to base myself somewhere that I wouldn’t need to rely on taxis or colectivos to get anywhere. And, this is where all my googling failed me. There basically wasn’t any real answer to which of the three areas was best.
Puerto Escondido proper is the original center of town, so it’s where the local market, shops, and restaurants are located. Of the three different zones, Puerto Escondido proper is the area of town that is least catered towards western tourists.
The areas of Rinconada and Reforma are home to a wide array of ‘mom and pop’ shops, al pastor restaurants, and decently priced handmade ceramics and textiles. If you’re looking to explore cheap, delicious Mexican food or bring home some amazing handcrafted pieces, this is the area to check out. Mercado Benito Juarez is also located up in this area, and is a great way to take a break from the sun for an hour or two. Looking for beaches to actually swim at? Those are all in this area of Puerto Escondido as well.
Zicatela is the most well defined ‘tourist zone’ of the three sectors in Puerto Escondido. Av. Del Morro is a long road that runs parallel to the beach, and is home to the majority of well.. everything in Zicatela.
Zicatela’s been building up it’s infrastructure for a while now, and has paved roads, street lights, etc. If you prefer more amenities but still want to be near the beach, Zicatela ticks that box. Zicatela has more of a city vibe with it’s fancier upgrades. Lined with swanky beach bars on one side, and large restaurants, tourist shops, and hotels on the other, this is the centre of night life in Puerto Escondido.
If you’re lucky enough to be in Zicatela when other people are, that is. For some reason, it was an absolute ghost town our entire week there. Despite the fact that there wasn’t anyone else around, we still had a good time wandering around. There are some amazing restaurants and beach bars, and we made a solid effort to test them all.
Zicatela is known for having one of the best breaks in the world, but hand in hand with the famed Mexican pipeline, you basically can’t go in the water. The riptide is strong, and the beach is a red flag zone the majority of the time. While walking along the beach we saw a group of guys go into the water up to their waist and the lifeguards rushed down, clearing them out of the water.
La Punta with it’s sandy roads and straw thatched roofs, is the ‘bohemian’ neighbourhood of the three. Less tourist infrastructure attracts a younger, more hippy crowd and the surfers, looking for a small beach town vibe. Yoga classes, roadside tacos stands, and little shops can all be found in La Punta.
Before travelling to Puerto Escondido I had read a few guides that described La Punta and the surrounding area as fairly empty and sketchy at night. This was part of the reason why I was hesitant on staying here. Some of the descriptions made it seem like you couldn’t walk around at all. This has definitely changed, with La Punta rapidly growing to accommodate an influx of visitors.
The streets surrounding Alejandro Cárdenas Peralta are scattered with guesthouses now. We were staying halfway between the beach and the highway, and we felt perfectly safe walking at night. The stretch of space between La Punta and Zicatela is basically a construction zone however, with no lights at night. I don’t recommend staying in this area, since the walk into La Punta or Zicatela at night definitely has a sketchy vibe.
There are spots to rent surfboards along the beach and the main strip, and you can also rent motorbikes/bicycles on Heroes Oaxaqueños.
Self catering in La Punta? We put the kitchen to work one night and made a massive family dinner for the four of us. If you’re looking for fresh seafood, (it’s Mexico after all), The restaurant 5 Hermanos sells fresh, uncooked seafood. We bought a kilo of large shrimp for 150MXN. Wrapped in fresh corn tortillas from the market, with guacamole and mango, we stuffed ourselves with shrimp tacos and coronas on our deck. Unreal.
If you’re staying for any length of time in the area and are looking to make some of your own meals, (or drinks, mango margaritas always), then it’s worth your while to go into town to the large market to get your groceries. There’s a huge selection and it’s ridiculously cheap.
There are numerous different beaches along Puerto Escondido, depending on your mood. Playa Zicatela, Playa Bacocho, Playa Carrizalillo, Puerto Angelito, Playa Principal, Playa Marinero. One thing that might catch you by surprise if you arrive in Puerto Escondido without doing a ton of research, is that a major portion of the beach in this beach town isn’t really open to swimmers.
I was extremely surprised at the lack of swimmable beaches in Puerto Escondido. Well, lack isn’t really the right word. There are numerous beaches open to the mermaids among us scattered throughout Puerto Escondido. But, Zicatela and Playa Punta, two of the largest beaches and where the majority of people stay – are red flag zones. When I was reading that you couldn’t swim in Zicatela or La Punta, I assumed it meant you couldn’t swim out far. Nah, you just can’t swim at all. Definitely something to keep in mind if you wanted to be in close proximity for an early morning splash.
Playa Punta is the Puerto Escondido favourite to visit for sunset, if it isn’t obvious from the crowds that begin to gather in the late afternoon. There are board rentals on the beach, volleyball nets, and there always seems to be a game going on. Enterprising residents walk the beach selling all sorts of homemade goods. We saw tostadas, tamales, and all sorts of pastries. My favourite nighttime routine was grabbing a beer at one of the tiendas, and settling in on the beach to sample some of the passing buffet. If you see a lady selling banana cake, definitely go for a slice (or two).
While Playa Punta isn’t the best beach for swimming, you can go splashing in a bit further than you can on Zicatela. If you’re looking for a social beach with a bit more of an adult vibe, it would be Playa Punta.
La Punta is also where everyone goes to watch sunset, and you can generally find more experienced surfers to join (or watch), off the point.
Playa Zicatela is basically a no-go for swimming, the winds are crazy and our entire time in Puerto Escondido there was a sandy haze over the beach. There were more experienced surfers occasionally out in the water, but the home to Mexico’s best break was empty the majority of the time. Since October to March is the best time for surfing at Zicatela, this would be the time to come to check out the pro surfers, if you’re interested.
Continuing north up Playa Zicatela you’ll reach Playa Principal. We walked along it and the best word to describe it would be industrial? Tons of boats in the water, and it just generally feels a little bit dingy and dirty. This is where all the fishing boats/boat tours dock, so that makes sense. You wouldn’t really swim here, unless dodging boats is your thing.
The road running parallel to the beach is lined with small souvenir shops and restaurants and bars. There are some hidden gems that aren’t accessible from the beach. Check out the michelada stand!
If you’re looking to go on a boat tour or fishing trip, the boats leave from Playa Principal. We were also told that if you head to the dock area early in the morning, you can buy fresh seafood from the fisherman coming in from their morning trips.
Playa Manzanillo was hands down my favourite beach in Puerto Escondido. We spent two solid days hanging out at Playa Manzanillo, and we lucked out to a basically empty beach. The water was calm and perfect for just lazing about, there’s a few beach shacks but they don’t take up the entire beach, and there’s some well placed palm trees, so you can enjoy the shade without having to shell out 150 pesos to save yourself from the lobster-esque sunburn. Basically all major pluses from me.
Puerto Angelito is in the same sheltered cove as Playa Manzanillo, the two are separated by a scattering of boulders. The beach was beautiful, but a bit busier than Playa Manzanillo, with more people and beach bars, so we avoided it and hung out at Playa Manzanillo instead.
Playa Carrizalillo (pronounced Car-eet-sa-lee-yo) is a small-ish beach tucked away in a protected crescent shaped bay. The waves are small, so it’s perfect for beginner surfers and for families. To reach Playa Carrizalillo there’s a tromp down 160 steps, which sounds a lot more strenuous than it actually is.
The one downside to the beach is that the majority of the beach is filled with beach huts, that cover almost every available inch of space with their umbrellas/chairs/tables. It’s 150 pesos for a chair, and despite what you might read online, if you buy food and drinks it DOES NOT go towards your chair rental. Once the tide comes up early/mid afternoon, space to lay a towel out on the beach gets extremely limited, and there’s zero shade.
I recommend heading here early in the morning to beat the crowds and the heat. Head back towards town, (or a different beach), around lunch time to escape the hottest part of the day. Luckily, El Cafecito’s original location is right next to the stairs down to Playa Carrizalillo. Stop by for some post stair climb guacamole and coronas!
Playa Bacocho is a bit further away from the action, so unless you’re up for a solid stroll, you’ll need to get a taxi to this one. We didn’t visit Playa Bacocho, but we were told it’s a quiet beach, with little in the way of amenities. Great if you want to pack snacks and go lay out away from the crowds, but the water is supposed to be a bit too rough for swimming.
Since surfing is what originally brought travellers to Puerto Escondido, it makes sense that it tops the list of things to do. Puerto Escondido’s a great place to surf, whether you’re a pro or your first time on a board. Beginner lessons are offered on La Punta and Playa Carrizalillo. You can also rent boards either on the beach or at numerous shops in Zicatela and La Punta. Group lessons run around 500 pesos per hour, and that includes a board.
Puerto Escondido is home to a couple of hikes, but not going to lie, we didn’t do any. It was ridiculously hot, and walking to and from the beach was more than enough direct sun time for me. From what I heard, the best one is the Andador Sea Walk, a mile long path that brings you between the ocean and cliffs.
To reach the path, head to the western edge of Playa Principal, it starts near the mermaid riding a sea turtle statue. The hike ends at the cliff edge before reaching Playa Manzanillo. During high tide the waves reach the path, so it’s best to head out during low tide. It also gets super hot and there’s no shade, so make sure to bring enough water.
Oaxacan cuisine is world famous, and luckily Puerto Escondido is a great spot to sample a bit of it. A food tour is always a great introduction to a new cuisine or town, since they usually involve market visits and hidden gems. You can ask your hostel/hotel/guesthouse for a recommendation for a tour or there are a few options online.
https://themexykan.com/
https://www.puertofoodtours.com/
After trying out the flavours of the Oaxaca coast, wouldn’t you love to be able to recreate it at home? Take a cooking class! I’ve taken cooking classes in numerous countries, and it always ends up being one of the highlights of my trip. The classes usually involve a trip to the market, where you can finally put a name to those foreign fruits and veggies. Tony from https://themexykan.com/ comes highly recommended.
Playa Bacocho is home to Vive Mar, a sea turtle sanctuary, and if you’re lucky your visit could line up with a baby release. The releases happen at night, and if there was a hatching that morning. Vive Mar can be contacted through their facebook page to find out if there’s been a hatching that day.
*** Sea turtles imprint on the beach they were born on, through their bellies. If you take part in a sea turtle release, make sure to hold the turtles by the edges of their shells, and not with them laying in the palm of your hand. The oils in our skin mess with their receptors and the turtles might not return to the beach to reproduce! ***
Getting around Puerto Escondido is easy enough, cabs are about 25-60 pesos depending on where you’re going and your haggling skills. They’re everywhere so it’s super easy to get one, just make sure you confirm the fare before you get in!
You wouldn’t be in Mexico if there wasn’t a colectivo option. Colectivos in Puerto Escondido are converted pickup trucks with a bench setup in the bed, covered with a tent-roof hybrid. The colectivos run along the highway, and it’s 7 pesos per person, no matter where you get on/off. Just flag one down that’s going in the direction you’re headed, and then in the back of the truck there’s a switch to buzz the driver when you when to get out.
VivaAerobus, Volaris, Interjet, Aeromar all run direct flights between Mexico City and Puerto Escondido daily, for about 125 Canadian return. They can be booked through skyscanner or whichever website you usually use.
Flights between Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca City are operated by Aerovega or Aerotucan.
Aerotucan has a website to book tickets.
Aerovega is owned and operated by the pilot, Juan Carlos Vega. It’s a small prop plane, and the 30 minute flight over the mountains is supposed to be breathtaking. Flights can be booked by calling or texting Pilot Juan Carlos Vega on Whatsapp. The number is +529545880062.
Leave the airport through Arrivals, and head through the parking lot towards the main road (about a 5 minute walk). Pass the little roadside gate and keep walking to the road. When you reach the main road (you’ll know you’re there when there’s an OX and a bus stop across the road from you), do not cross the road.
This should basically be your view when you’re in the right spot.
Just turn right and stand by the road sign. The green Sur buses to Puerto Escondido stop here. I’m assuming they stop if they see someone standing there, but wave at it when you see it, just in case. Fare to Puerto Escondido is 80 pesos per person and takes about an hour and a half.
The ADO bus from Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido is about 11 hours, winding slowly through switchbacks along the mountainside. The buses are comfortable, with large reclining leather seats and AC. We took the night bus and slept the entire way to Oaxaca City. You can book tickets through their website or at the bus station. They’re around 500 MXN regularly, and if you book a couple days in advance they’re usually on sale for cheaper.
12-15 passenger shuttles run the route between Oaxaca City and Puerto Escondido numerous times daily. The shuttle takes about 7 hours, but is less comfortable than the bus. If you’re prone to car sickness, you might be better off taking the larger bus. The shuttle was around 250 MXN when we were in Puerto Escondido.
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