Sucre, Bolivia – One Week in the Brilliant White City

Sucre, Bolivia’s little known capital, and where Bolivia’s first constitution was formed after they gained independence from Spain. The UNESCO World Heritage site historic centre is made up of whitewashed colonial buildings with red roof tiles – giving Sucre it’s nickname, The White City. Travellers flock here in droves to sign up to learn their ABC’s in español. And why wouldn’t you?

Bolivian Spanish is known for having a fairly baseline accent, which can’t be said for all South American countries. With classes going for as low as 135 CAD for 20 hours, it makes sense for a penny-pinching backpacker. And hey, we’re just those penny-pinchers. So, off we went to Sucre.

Spanish Classes in Sucre

Sucre itself doesn’t have a whole lot of must see places, and isn’t really central to any hikes or outdoor activities. That’s part of the reason why it’s so ideal for Spanish classes. We didn’t feel like we were missing out on a whole lot while spending half of the day tucked away in class, and another portion doing homework/studying.

I don’t know if anything sounds as unenjoyable as trying to learn a new language at 8 in the morning while hungover. Sucre does have a few popular bars (what town with a significant amount of backpackers doesn’t), but luckily it’s easy enough to bypass.

Sucre has quite a few options for classes, and after a bit of research we chose Me Gusta Spanish School. It was a few blocks from our hostel and the class sizes were capped at 6 people. Class ran from 8-12, with a small break. We both took the beginner class, which started at the absolute basics.

The one downside to classes at Me Gusta however, was that it was fairly laid back. Compared to people we met who were taking classes at the same time, there was very little extra work to do, and most of the classes were conducted in English. I feel like if we had taken courses at a different school, we might of finished with a bit more.

Since we were paying money for class, and learning some Spanish was one of our goals for the trip. We wanted to make sure we focused and did our homework, so we tried to avoid doing a whole lot at night.

 

 

Things to Do in Sucre

My extremely mediocre Spanish skills aside, we still managed to get out and explore Sucre. We spent a day roaming the city,  looking for some hidden gems. One of the nicest spots we stumbled upon was La Torre Cafe Mirador.

A cafe in a an old converted church space, La Torre Cafe Mirador has amazing views over the city, especially when you take the time to climb all the way to the top. An adorable spot to sit with a book and a coffee and take in the quiet view.

 

Recoleta, Sucre

One grey afternoon with a storm quickly rolling in, we made our way up the steep Calle Dalence to ‘Recoleta’, a little neighbourhood tucked into the base of Churuquella mountain. It’s definitely a bit of a thigh burner, considering the climb is basically vertical. However, when you’re getting lapped by a 90 year old woman, you really can’t complain. Once we reached the end of our climb, we were greeted by Plaza de Anzurez.

Home to Monastery de La Recoleta, a monastery and church turned museum built in the 1600’s. A small market was set up under the picturesque white arches, and kids were running around playing soccer.

From the plaza we headed to Recoleta Mirador Cafe, a quaint garden cafe tucked into the side of the hill. With bistro tables dotting the grass, it was a great spot to grab a coffee and take in the views over Sucre, before the rain came in.

 

Mercado Central

With such great kitchen facilities at our hostel, we cooked almost all our meals to make up for our major veggie deficiency. Luckily, Mercado Central has an amazing selection, so we visited daily. I always love to explore the local markets, and this one is definitely worth a wander.

The juice/smoothie stands on the main floor are fantastic, and it’s 5-12 bolivianos for a massive fresh squeezed juice. The ladies are all so lovely, we stopped in every day after Spanish class. Pop upstairs to the ‘food court’ of sorts, for a quick and cheap menu del dia – a set menu that includes a soup and a main, with some sort of juice, for 20 bolivianos.

The avocado ladies are also upstairs and deserve a little walk through. I basically just thought it entertaining t to see so many avocados in one place.

 

Unfortunately, we arrived on a Sunday and left the following Saturday, so we didn’t get the chance to experience the nearby Tarabuco Market. About 2 hours away from Sucre, everyone we spoke to said it was 100% worth checking out. As opposed to the markets in the city,  Tarabuco supposedly showcases fantastic handmade craft items. However, do your own due diligence, since with any tourist draw comes the not quite so lovingly made knock-offs.

 

Where to Stay in Sucre

7 Patas. We stayed here and were more than happy with our choice. Double room for 11 dollars a night? Yes please. The hostel had great kitchen facilities, was a 5 minute walk to our Spanish school, and had a great crowd of people.

 

Where to Eat in Sucre

Cafe Time & Coffee – We spent some solid hours here, studying Spanish. Across the road from Parque Simón Bolívar, the patio tables were my favourite on a sunny day. Great coffee, pastries, and wifi.

Bienmesabe – The most delicious arepas! Check it out for a break from the soup and quinoa diet.

El Pollo Loco – Mexican style grilled chicken and sides. Half a grilled chicken and a bunch of sides for 40 bolivianos, a great quick, somewhat healthy dinner option.

Looking for information on visiting the Salt Flats? Read my post about my experience at Salar de Uyuni!