Driving through the outskirts of Rio de Janeiro, you pass through a city where two ways of life are merging. Ramshackle tin roof houses precariously lean against one another, with children bouncing on a trampoline in the yard. Horses graze in a field, avoiding the brand new cars using the field as a parking lot. Old men fish off the side of the highway overpass, as transport trailers and passenger buses zoom pass.
We had spent a long, LONG, time figuring out our hostel situation in Rio de Janeiro. Rio de Janeiro is a properly gigantic city, broken up into four different zones with many distinct neighbourhoods. It would take a month to even begin to give Rio the attention it rightfully deserves, and unfortunately we didn’t have that much time. Since we only had seven days to do as much as possible, we decided to stay in basically two opposite ends of the city. We based ourselves in Ipanema and Lapa, and planned out our days according to which half of the city we were in.
In Rio de Janeiro, the beaches aren’t just for lounging or spending an afternoon, they’re a way of life. At any point in time there’s a game of football going on, On the beaches, you can find anything you could possibly need for a day of enjoying the sun without even leaving your canga. Vendors prowl the beach selling bikinis (pop up dressing rooms included), sunscreen, waterproof phone cases, and flip flops.
If you get hungry, there is no shortage of food options parading pass. Empanadas, shrimp on a stick, açaí bowls, and my personal favourite, queijo coalho. Queijo coalho is a firm cheese, similar to halloumi, speared on a stick and grilled on a handy portable grill, then sprinkled with oregano.
If staying by the beach is more your vibe, you have a couple different neighbourhoods to choose from. However, for most people it’s really only a choice between two, Copacabana and Ipanema.
Classic Copacabana, a little bit grittier than the days when Marilyn Monroe was lounging on its beaches, but still just as amazing. Famous for its teeny-tiny bikinis and glistening six packs, it’s understandable why the beach is lined with outdoor gyms and volleyball nets.
Ipanema, now known as the more glamorous of the two beach barrios, with boutique shops and hotels lining the streets. The neighbourhood streets are lined with juice bars and açaí shops, where you can quickly pop in and grab a vitamina or an açaí bowl for the road, or perch yourself at the counter like a real Carioca.
With only two days by the beach, we had a massive list of things to try and do, besides actually exploring Ipanema and Copacabana. We whittled it down to visiting Sugarloaf Mountain, checking out Jardim Botanico, and catching sunset from Arpoador Rock.
Unfortunately, our well thought out schedule didn’t end up working out as planned, since our first day in Ipanema began with torrential downpours that showed no signs of stopping. We ended up hanging out at our hostel for the majority of the day, only making a couple quick dashes out for food.
Thankfully, the next morning we woke up to sunny skies, so we spent the day wandering the boardwalk from Ipanema to Copacabana, trying out as many different açaí bowls as possible, before hitting the beach for some solid bummin’.
And bummin’ it is.
The bikinis in Rio de Janeiro are no joke. I had purposefully purchased a couple ‘cheeky’ bikini bottoms before leaving home, specifically for the Brazil beaches. I didn’t realize that what Canada considers cheeky is full blown prudish to Brazilian standards. The thong rules supreme in Rio. All shapes and sizes rock them and flaunt them, and while I wasn’t brave enough to go full out like the locals, I did make a beachside purchase the first day that was made up of a lot less material than what I had brought down from the frosty North.
We celebrated my much more liberal purchase with a couple caipirinhas before we headed back to grab our stuff and move on to our next hostel.
Up next we were staying in Lapa. Somewhat in the centre of the city, it’s home to sultry dance clubs and intimate cafes. Tables and chairs spill onto the sidewalks, with people gathering over café or cerveja, way past our bedtimes. While in Lapa we hoped to do a few things that were washed out while in Ipanema, plus had a couple other things on our list.
We lucked out when we discovered that the Escadaria Selarón, or the Lapa Steps, were just blocks from our hostel. The stairs are extremely crowded at the best of times, and absolute chaos at the worst. We planned to head over as soon as the sun came up in the hopes of beating the bulk of the crowds.
Easily recognized around the world, (and not just because of their colorful starring role in Snoop Dogg’s Beautiful music video). They’re as iconic a symbol of Rio as Sugarloaf Mountain or Copacabana’s mosaic boardwalks.
The work of artist Jorge Selarón, he began renovating the two hundred and fifteen steps in front of his home in the nineties. Originally scavenging materials from abandoned worksites and rubbish throughout the city, he began covering the steps in tiles, mirrors, and ceramics.
As time went on, visitors from around the world began donating tiles, to help with his work. Whenever Selarón would finish one section of the steps, he would began work on another. The stairs transformed into an ever evolving mosaic of tiles. This all came to an end in 2013, when Selarón was found dead on the steps. It’s still a mystery what actually happened.
We arrived at Escaradia Selarón around eight in the morning, what I thought was bright and early. While we definitely weren’t by ourselves, the stairs weren’t absolutely mobbed like I had read was common later in the day. It was nice to be able to take our time and actually look at all the different tiles, without feeling like we were being crowded.
We spent a long time climbing all the way to the top, and while we searched we didn’t find a single Canadian tile. I’m sure there’s one somewhere, but since the common colour used is red, it would blend in well.
Definitely head there as early as possible, especially if you’re hoping to get a couple photos without the crowds. We were there for a while, so we were able to time a couple photos between tour groups.
Also, people tend to hang out at the bottom of the stairs. Climb up to the top and you’ll have it basically to yourself.
Santa Teresa was next on our list while staying in Lapa. Santa Teresa is a bohemian, artistic neighbourhood overlooking the rest of the city. Crumbling mansions crowd the sides of the Santa Teresa hill as you wind your way to the top.
To get there, it’s an easy half hour walk up the hill, or a quick ride on the Santa Teresa Bonde. The tram originates near the Metropolitan Cathedral, with the closest metro being Carioca station. It’s 20 reals and supposedly departs every 30 minutes. But, we waited around for a while and it didn’t show up, so the schedule could be a bit lax.
Filled with eclectic shops and art galleries, we spent an afternoon walking around Santa Teresa. We checked out the amazing graffiti (Rio has so much), and popped into cute little cafes. It was here that we stumbled across Cultivar, a tiny cafe with only four tables, home to the best açaí bowl and pão de queijo we had during our time in Rio.
Santa Teresa is also home to Parque das Ruinas, an abandoned mansion turned cultural centre. The grounds were converted into a beautiful and quiet park, and the renovated mansion boasts an art exhibit, along with some amazing views of the city and Guanabara Bay.
We were told it’s best to stick to R. Joaquim Murtinho, the street the tram line runs up, if you choose to walk to or from Santa Teresa during the day. At night it’s better to go with a registered taxi or uber. Also, when walking further through Santa Teresa, you begin going down a hill that has old tram rails. We walked about 15 minutes this way, but it started getting empty, so we turned around. All in all, we felt entirely safe in Santa Teresa, just make sure to stick to populated streets and use common sense.
One of the most iconic sights in the world, and a point on many a travellers bucket list, visiting Christ the Redeemer was another activity slated for our Lapa itinerary. Well known for often being hidden by thick cloud coverage, we had to time our visit with the weather. We lucked out and woke up on the day we intended to visit to a bright, clear sky, so we hightailed it up. There’s a couple ways you can visit Christ the Redeemer, depending on your interests and budget. I’ve written a separate post detailing the different options, it’s linked below.
5 ways to visit Christ the Redeemer!
Before we left Ipanema for our hostel in Lapa, the internet was down. So, instead of checking the confirmation email for any extra directions, we decided to wing it since we had the address. (This would have been helpful, since the email from the hostel specifies how to get there to avoid walking up a certain street). We took the metro down to Lapa and headed in the shortest direction to our hostel. This route brought us up the meant-to-be-avoided street, that I was feeling more and more uncomfortable walking.
I wasn’t overly surprised when a woman walking ahead of us stopped us from walking any further, and directed us to go back the way we came. We showed her where we were trying to go, and by this point she had enlisted the help of another man on the street. After a few minutes discussion, they pointed us up a different pathway, off the street we were on, and we made it safe and sound.
While that story is entirely uneventful, thankfully, the point is follow your gut. If that woman hadn’t turned us around, things might of turned out differently. Locals will usually try to steer you in the right direction, or at least steer you out of a bad one.
Google’s offline maps is my go-to. I always make sure I have the map downloaded for whichever city we’re headed to next, and save any hostels, restaurants, etc. as a flag, so it’s easy to show someone where you’re trying to go if you get confused.
During our time in Rio de Janeiro, we were constantly being warned by hostel staff and travellers about the city dangers. While there are areas in Rio that are becoming more tourist friendly, it’s still a city where you need to be careful. It’s easy to take a wrong turn, and end up somewhere that feels a little uncomfortable. Common sense and gut feeling can go a long way. Be aware of your surroundings, and observe what the people around you are doing.
Getting To Rio de Janeiro – We took Easytransfer, a shuttle service that drops you at your door in Rio. For 90 reals they transported us from Ilha Grande to the mainland on their speedboat. From there it was a private shuttle van to Rio.
Going from Rio de Janeiro to Salvador – From Rio, we headed north to Salvador. This is a minimum thirty two hour bus ride, so we took the two hour flight. Buses are expensive in Brazil due to it being absolutely massive. If you know what your plan is a few weeks in advance, it’s probably cheaper to book a flight!
Where We Stayed in Rio de Janeiro – Mambembe House. A sprawling hostel in the Lapa neighbourhood, the house is laid out over multiple levels, so there’s tons of space. Multiple terraces boast hammocks and couches, and there’s a small, well-equipped kitchen. Security is taken seriously, we always needed to be buzzed in and there’s a twenty-four hour front desk.
Loving Rio de Janeiro? Check out these other helpful articles for exploring Brazil!
11 Things to Know When Travelling in Rio De Janeiro
How to Get to Christ the Redeemer – Rio de Janeiro
Ilha Grande – Brazil’s Untouched Island Gem
Beach Hopping in Itacaré – The Best Beaches in Brazil
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